With Jean-Charles Abbatucci, it is all too easy to get entranced in geeky minutiae about forgotten grape varieties, his latest biodynamic farming innovations, and Corsican wine history. But with a cold glass of his rosé, all this cerebral trivia takes a back seat to the visceral experience of sheer pleasure. It is made from mostly Sciaccarellu grapes grown with care in granitic soils, subject to a slow, delicate pressing and cool, natural fermentation. If you could taste a Corsican breeze, it might resemble this—herbaceous, gently floral, and pleasantly salty.